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Escarpment Magaz ine Summer 2012
When
Sean Brady moved north from Toronto nearly five years ago his
intention had been to build a log home on his newly purchased acreage in Ko-
lapore. But soon the remnants of an old fish hatchery from the 1960s located
on his land called to him. Together with partner Bruce Green, the two devised a
plan to get a trout farm up and running. Within three months the pair created a
natural and sustainable hatchery raising Rainbow, Speckled, Brown and Tiger
Trout for the local market, with gravity-fed water, a controlled fish population
and a partnership with several local businesses.
Two woodland streams that run under the Kolapore Uplands forest feed the
Hatchery, and because the water from the streams is colder than at most com-
mercial fish farms (averaging 10.5 degrees Celsius in the height of the summer)
the Hatchery breeds healthier, firmer-fleshed fish. The icy water also allows for
the establishment of fresh water shrimp, which contain an enzyme that adds
flavour and an impressive deep red colour to the trout. Now in its third year of
operation the Hatchery has gained a reputation for high-quality products and
supplies dozens of local grocery stores and restaurants such as Simplicity Bistro,
The Pottery at Blue Mountain, Bruce Wine Bar, and Copper Blues Bar & Grill.
Sean has also created a niche market for special events at the quaintly rustic
Kolapore Springs Cabin located at the Hatchery. The cabin and beautiful sur-
roundings has inspired both local and international chefs to create dishes that
harken back to simpler times. Earlier this spring the modest space was the venue
for an intimate and casual dinner with recent Top Chef Canada season two win-
ner, Carl Heinrich, which featured farm-fresh local produce and Kolapore
Springs Trout. Heinrich, along with his partner Ryan Donovan, prepared the
feast over the cabin’s wood-burning stove for a dozen or so lucky journalists,
farmers and foodies.
70
Foodies f ind that
the fattier the
trout, the f iner
the f lavour.
~Sean Brady
Sean Brady at Kolapore Springs Fish Hatchery
Kolapore
Springs
Fish
Hatchery...
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STORY & PHOTOS | CARA WILLIAMS